breaking+waves
11Dispersion (water waves) — This article is about dispersion of waves on a water surface. For other forms of dispersion, see Dispersion (disambiguation). In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of… …
12Boussinesq approximation (water waves) — In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by… …
13Surfing — This article is about stand up ocean surfing. For other uses, see Surfing (disambiguation). A surfer performing a late drop …
14Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 …
15Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small …
16Camassa–Holm equation — In fluid dynamics, the Camassa–Holm equation is the integrable, dimensionless and non linear partial differential equation:u t + 2kappa u x u {xxt} + 3 u u x = 2 u x u {xx} + u u {xxx}. ,The equation was introduced by Camassa and HolmCamassa Holm …
17National Society of Film Critics Awards 1996 — 31st NSFC Awards January 5, 1996 Best Film: Breaking the Waves The 31st National Society of Film Critics Awards, given by the National Society of Film Critics on 5 January 1996, honored the best in film for 1996. Contents 1 Winners …
18surfing — /serr fing/, n. the act or sport of riding the surf, as on a surfboard. Also called surfriding. [1915 20; SURF + ING1] * * * Sport of riding breaking waves toward the shore, especially with a surfboard. The sport originated prehistorically in the …
19Rip current — Riptide redirects here. For other uses, see Riptide (disambiguation). Rip current, as seen from above. The beach is visible at the right top …
20Clapotis — Incoming wave (red) reflected at the wall produces the outgoing wave (blue), both being overlaid resulting in the clapotis (black). In hydrodynamics, the clapotis (from French: lapping of water ) is a non breaking standing wave pattern, caused… …
